~This poem was previously published in Hawai’i Pacific Review (2011).
SPACCANAPOLI*
I’m a stumbling novitiate here
in jutting shadow, glancing at my watch
when a church bell tolls:
it’s 1:20, a time of no apparent meaning,
but the bell resounds, insistent as old men roaring
by on vespas like God almighty, click of stiletto sandals
on Magna Graecia stones, Bulgari jewels that spin
prisms down shop-clotted alleys. Boys joust with friends
and soccer balls in passageways; when doors open
on pot-clatter, then shut, their nail-hung red-pepper rosaries
rise up to knock a blessing. Ciao! Bella! Over-ripe vowels
thicken the air; I’m lost in black eyes, as if tumbling
through layers of earth and time into a chamber swelled
by a cult’s chants, the tinkling percussion of buried
springs. Chink in the wall! I climb the light
on a spider’s thread to rejoin the human web:
vendors crowd basilica steps with offerings
of red shoelaces and hand-carved mangers.
From a sidewalk niche, Neptune lifts his trident
over us all: Alla vostra salute, the grime-streaked
gated palazzos; bomb-gouged churches
where bare-shouldered teenage girls kneel
in the glow of Caravaggios; the hidden gardens
sheltering galaxies of lemon trees.
Inside a cloister, 15 marble skulls grin
‘round the monk’s graveyard plot
(the one wreathed with laurel is laughing),
and I think I could live here with a book
and the happy dead, looking up sometimes to watch
this nun with her radiant rag polishing their heads.
*One of the oldest sections of Naples , center of the original Greco-Roman city of Neapolis .
Alla vostra salute: Here’s to you