~This essay was previously published in New Plains Review (2015), as “Higher Ground: Old Men Don’t Need
Much Sleep.”
Old Men Don’t Need Much Sleep
I set out from Broken Bow, Nebraska,
on the last day of spring 2011 to visit Wounded Knee on the Pine Ridge Indian
Reservation in South Dakota. It was the third day of my annual trip west from North
Carolina. I grew up in Oregon but had moved east nearly 50 years before. Most
of my family remained in the Portland area, and I flew out every Christmas. But
when Mom died in 2002, Christmas lost its cohesion, and I started driving out in
summer. In addition to visiting family, I wanted to revisit places from my past
and explore the unknown. Time had also become a factor. My bucket list had
gotten more crowded without having to add new entries.
Wounded Knee is the site of an 1890
massacre of more than 150 Lakota Sioux men, women, and children. It is regarded
by many historians as the final conflict for the West. The site has been
designated a National Historic Landmark, but is not promoted for public
visitation by U.S. or tribal authorities. There used to be a small village
there with a trading post and museum, but these were destroyed in 1973 during
an occupation by members of the American Indian Movement and consequent
facedown with federal authorities.
In recent years I have been reading
more about the removal of Native Americans from their homelands, the forced
settlement onto reservations, and the causes of conditions that persist on
those reservations today. Books are dangerous. They awaken curiosity. They prompt
journeys.
Since I regarded my visit as
something close to trespass, I decided to bypass the reservation town of Pine
Ridge, pay my respects quietly at the Wounded Knee cemetery, and leave
unnoticed. As usual, things did not go as I imagined they would.
It was raining when I woke up in
Broken Bow, and it rained all morning as I followed Route 2 through the green
sandhills of northwestern Nebraska, the largest region of dunes in the Western
Hemisphere. The unrelenting drizzle was becoming a threat to the outdoor lunch
I had packed. On the road I look for a natural setting for lunch, but if
raining, I look for a restaurant. Skipping lunch was not an option. A life
without lunch is a life without meaning.
By late morning, an indoor lunch
appeared likely, and Pine Ridge was the only town around, about a dozen miles
from the cemetery. It was still raining as I approached the reservation from
Nebraska a little after eleven. I had been up since 5:30 and decided to have
lunch before going to the cemetery. I was getting hungry, and it would give the
rain another chance to realize it had made its point.